“I was just doing it because I was pretty good at math. It’s one of those things that you do to figure out what you actually want to do,” Kartik Kumra, Founder at Karu Research, shared with Esquire in a candid interview. 

Back in 2020, during his sophomore year studying Economics at the University of Pennsylvania, Kumra like many of us, had to return home to Gurgaon and navigate quarantine.

Amidst plans to join a financial firm, the idle moments of quarantine sparked innovation. Departing from the typical path of an economics major, Kumra chose to embark on Karu Research, a venture seamlessly blending Indian age-old craftsmanship with contemporary fashion.

Pre-Karu Crisis in Indian Craftsmanship

Across the diverse tapestry of India, artisans battled economic challenges. The turmoil of demonetization and the shadow of GST had already cast a cloud over their livelihoods. Then, the pandemic arrived and the 2020 survey by All India And Craftworker’s Welfare Association unveiled their struggle during these unprecedented times. 

The survey exposed the harsh reality that 30 percent of these unsung artisans required immediate assistance for six months. An additional 40 percent needed help for at least three months. 

This financial crisis was a direct result of the sharp drop in sales within the artisan community during the pandemic. About 70 percent of the artisans saw a significant decline in their sales and a staggering 80 percent of these artisans had to face the disheartening ordeal of having their orders cancelled or postponed.

Enters Kartik Kumra

It was during this critical period, Kumra proactively immersed himself in artisanal clusters across the country, forging meaningful connections with diverse craftsmen. From handloom weavers in Andhra Pradesh to hand embroiderers in Delhi; he engaged with an industry facing a a gradual shift in their audience towards low-cost machine-made fashion. A transformation further accelerated by technological advancements year after year.

In revolutionizing the fashion industry, Kumra inadvertently became a catalyst for uplifting the livelihoods of artisans. Unlike renowned brands such as Dior, which at times labelled “Made in India” goods as “Made in France”, Kumra ensured these craftsmen received global visibility. 

Furthermore, by engaging directly with artisans, he eliminated middlemen, notorious for claiming a substantial share of profits. In a candid chat with SoleSavvy, Kumra promised to provide the artisans with “living wages even above the market”, making Karu a mutually beneficial partnership between artisans and Kumra.

Decoding Heritage Brands

Before decoding what made Karu Research a heritage brand in just two years, let’s unravel the essence of heritage brands. Surpassing mere style, heritage brands craft a living tapestry with history, craftsmanship and cultural allure. Channeling this essence, icons like Chanel and Dior stand as paragons deeply rooted in a legacy of artistry and tradition.

Heritage brands such as Chanel and Dior epitomize a profound European legacy, weaving a narrative of time-honored craftsmanship and sartorial excellence.

Embracing their rich history, these iconic houses embark on initiatives that seamlessly intertwine tradition with innovation. In a tribute to European artisans, Chanel's Métiers d’Art collaborates with small specialist workshops like Desrues and Barrie, magnifying the brand's legacy of melding fashion with unparalleled European craftsmanship.

Similarly, Dior's alliance with the Le Constantine Foundation for their Cruise 2021 showcase exemplifies a commitment to preserving and invigorating the Puglia region's cultural heritage. Through responsible culture and traditional craft education, these heritage brands not only celebrate their European roots but also strategically employ heritage marketing to safeguard and showcase their invaluable cultural bequests.

What Marks Karu as a Heritage Brand?

A two-year-old fashion startup becoming a heritage brand is novel. Understanding what defines it is key. Primarily, like its European counterparts, Karu pioneers timeless Indian craftsmanship. He elevates it on the global stage in modern menswear and makes its own by embracing the essence. Kumra also effectively markets this essence through the implementation of heritage marketing strategies. 

For instance, the inaugural Instagram reel adeptly delves into the founder Kumra’s narrative, showcasing his team of artisans - a storytelling strategy familiar to heritage brands levering their legacy. 

Even as the semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize, Kumra employed a storytelling strategy in his Instagram reel captioned “THE PROCESS for lvmh prize”, narrating the clothing-making process. The narration provides a spotlight to the humans. 

Or perhaps the actual “Karus” behind the brand along with his personal growth in understanding fashion, leveraging his brand essence akin to a heritage brand. Moreover, the brand’s collaborative reel with Mr Porter strategically leverages and celebrates the heritage it carries. By doing so, positioning itself as a heritage brand via heritage marketing.

Despite employing heritage marketing strategies, the designs and photoshoots of collections like "Zindagi Chuno" or "Reluctantly Fundamental" effectively capture Indian aesthetics. All of which playing a pivotal role in defining Karu as a heritage brand.

To sum up, Karu's integration of India's timeless craftsmanship as its own heritage, coupled with the embodiment of this legacy in collections, photoshoots, and a strategic heritage marketing approach, solidifies its status as a heritage brand.

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3 Steps That Fast-Tracked Karu to Becoming a Heritage Brand

1. Cultural Appropriation Fallout

There was undoubtedly a noticeable void in global South Asian representation. And Kumra wasn't the only one to acknowledge this fact. Antonio K. Ciongoli, Founder and Creative Director of 18East, identified the same gap and established 18East, leveraging artisans from India and Nepal for the launch of a 31-piece line. 

However, Ciongoli faced backlash primarily for what critics labelled as racist appropriation. Critics questioned how a white man could ethically leverage age-old South Asian craftsmanship. 

Additionally, he collection's photoshoots predominantly showcased white models, lacking the essence of South-Asian heritage. Critics labelled it a white-washed version of Indian aesthetics.

These backlashes failed in Antonio's attempt to leverage South Asian craftsmanship as it became prey to “cancel culture.

The snag could be that, up until Kumra’s entrance, it wasn't the brown folks taking the lead- and that helped Karu shine.

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2. Outshining local competition

It’s inaccurate to claim that Kumra was the sole Indian to recognize the latent potential in India's fading craftsmanship. Shani Himanshu and Mia Morikawa, creators of the brand 11:11, similarly collaborate with Indian artisans and have a presence on Mr. Porter, paralleling Karu.

The question that arises is, if there is local competition then how did Karu achieve such large-scale success? Karu's success is attributed to a strategic focus on menswear, addressing the scarcity of Indian-crafted menswear. While 11:11 also offers a menswear line, Karu's specialisation in men's jackets sets it apart. Kumra's deliberate emphasis on this niche has proven instrumental in distinguishing Karu from other Indian counterparts in the market.

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3. Dior’s Dilemma, Kumra’s Triump

While Dior and others have taken initiatives to showcase European craftsmanship, they have not extended the same efforts to promote Indian craftsmanship. European luxury brands need help to afford manufacturing in Europe itself due to high market prices, leading them to explore more affordable alternatives, with India emerging as a prominent choice. 

European luxury brands often engage Indian artisans, but they frequently overlook providing them visibility by selling products under the "Made in France" label rather than "Made in India". Well, at least Antonia provided visibility. 

They are also criticized for not cutting out middlemen or fashion brokers, resulting in artisans not receiving their rightful compensation.

Karu's triumph, as discussed earlier, lies in Kumra revitalizing declining craftsmanship in India. He not only paid artisans above market rates but also granted them visibility A move, often resisted by European counterparts due to entrenched traditions. These initiatives, notably different, did not go unnoticed and significantly contributed to Karu's success.

Hence, it is accurate to assert that Karu's success stems from competitors' unethical practices, their actions without considering consequences, and Karu's strategic focus on Indian-crafted menswear, particularly jackets.

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